1. Overview
There’s a magic about Cambodia that casts a spell on many who visit this charming yet confounding kingdom. Ascend to the realm of the gods at the mother of all temples, Angkor Wat, a spectacular fusion of symbolism, symmetry and spirituality. Descend into the hell of Tuol Sleng and come face to face with the Khmer Rouge and its killing machine. Welcome to the conundrum that is Cambodia: a country with a history both inspiring and depressing, an intoxicating place where the future is waiting to be shaped.
The chaotic yet charismatic capital of Phnom Penh is a hub of political intrigue, economic vitality and intellectual debate. All too often overlooked by hit-and-run tourists ticking off Angkor on a regional tour, the revitalised city of Siem Reap is finally earning plaudits in its own right thanks to a gorgeous riverside location, a cultural renaissance, and a dining and drinking scene to rival the best in the region. And don’t forget the rest of the country: relax in the sleepy seaside town of Kampot and trek the nearby Bokor National Park; take an elephant ride in the jungles of Mondulkiri Province; ogle the Mekong dolphins at Kratie or simply choose a beach near Sihanoukville.
2. Visas
Most visitors to Cambodia require a visa to enter the country and all travelers must have a passport valid for 6 months after their planned exit from Cambodia.
Most nationalities can get a one–month visa on arrival at the international airports (Siem Reap and Phnom Penh) and at land borders without prior registration. These Visa On Arrivals are valid for 30 days, single entry and cost 20 USD & 25 USD (visitors enter on a one-month business visa) and requires one photo. It is also possible to arrange a visa through Cambodian embassies overseas or an online e-visa (US$25) through the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Arranging a visa ahead of time can help prevent potential overcharging at some land crossings.
Those seeking work in Cambodia should opt for the business visa as, officially, it is easily extended for long periods and, unofficially, can be extended indefinitely, including multiple entries and exits. A tourist visa can be extended only once and only for one month, and does not allow for re-entry.
3. Weather
Cambodia has two distinctive seasons: Rainy from June to October and dry from November to May. Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.
Traveling during the rainy season has its benefits as the temple moats in Siem Reap are full, making for great photos. The rains are usually in the afternoon and last 2-3 hours. The dry season can be very dusty, but easier for walking through the jungle terrain around the temples. The temperature is fairly steady 30-35 Celsius during the day time, although November to January often has cooler temperatures.
Immigration
All nationalities need to apply for a travel visa, except from the following countries: Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, the Philippines, Singapore, and Vietnam.
Customs
Customs may authorize the removal of the goods from the customs clearance area prior to the payment of duties and taxes and fees, under customs control and after the fulfillment of customs formalities, for the purposes of:
Temporary storage;
Bonded storage;
Further transportation within or through the Customs Territory to a destination and along routing and within time limits approved by Customs, including transit, transshipment or transportation to or from or between customs offices, and customs temporary storage facilities and customs bonded warehouses.
The goods may be released by Customs after fulfillment of customs formalities, including the payment of any duties or taxes and/or provision of security, for such goods to be:
Imported for home use;
Temporarily admitted; and
Used under duty-suspended conditions.
The following goods can be taken into Cambodia without incurring customs duty, but goods do not exceed twenty kilograms:
200 cigarettes or an
Equivalent quantity of cigars or tobacco
A bottle of spirit
A reasonable amount of perfume
Prohibited items include all kinds of narcotics (hemp, opium, cocaine, morphine, and heroin), obscene literature, pornography, antiquities, ammunition, and weaponry. The export of local flora and fauna from Cambodia is not permitted.
5. Clothing
Comfortable lightweight clothing in natural fabrics such as cotton is most suitable for traveling in Cambodia. The dress code is fairly casual as in most parts of the tropics but it is advisable to cover arms and legs in the evenings against biting insects. A lightweight raincoat and umbrella are a good idea in the rainy season and the umbrella can also offer useful shade from the sun.
Shoes (and socks!) must be removed before entering any religious building or private home. It is therefore useful to wear shoes without too many laces and which can easily be taken off. We provide small towels to clean your feet before putting back on your shoes.
6. Border gate
Cambodia shares one border crossing with Laos, six crossings with Thailand and eight with Vietnam. Visas are now available at all the land crossings with Laos, Thailand and Vietnam.
Water Borders: There is a river border crossing between Cambodia and Vietnam on the banks of the Mekong. There are regular fast passenger boats plying the route between Phnom Penh and Chau Doc in Vietnam, via the Kaam Samnor–Vinh Xuong border crossing. There are also a couple of luxurious river boats running all the way to the temples of Angkor in Cambodia. There is also a river crossing on the Mekong border with Laos, although most travellers use the road these days.
Land Borders: For years overland travellers were restricted to entering or exiting Cambodia at the Bavet–Moc Bai border crossing with Vietnam. However, lots of new land crossings between Cambodia and its neighbours have opened, offering overland connections with Laos, Thailand and Vietnam.
Laos
The road crossing is more straightforward, as on the Mekong, Cambodian immigration is on the west bank and Lao immigration is on the east bank. Once in Voen Kham in Laos, there are outboards running up to the island of Don Khone.
Thailand
Cambodia and Thailand share a lengthy border and there are now six legal international border crossings, and many more options for locals. Land borders with Thailand are open from 7am to 8pm daily.
Poipet–aranya prathet
The original land border crossing between Cambodia and Thailand has earned itself a bad reputation in recent years, with scams galore to help tourists part with their money. The ‘scam bus’ promoted on Khao San Rd in Bangkok is now legendary throughout Asia, but many travellers still succumb to the charms of cheap tickets.
The road to Siem Reap is still unsurfaced and gets very, very ugly during the wet season. It should be the number one priority for trade and tourism, and it should finally be rebuilt over the next few years.
Leaving Cambodia, it is easy enough to get to Poipet from Siem Reap, Battambang or even Phnom Penh. By land there is no departure tax to leave Cambodia.
Cham yeam–hat lek
The Cham Yeam–Hat Lek border crossing between Cambodia’s Krong Koh Kong and Trat in Thailand is popular with travellers linking the beaches of Cambodia and Thailand.
Leaving Cambodia, take either a taxi or moto across the bridge to the border from Krong Koh Kong. Once in Thailand, catch a minibus to Trat from where there are regular buses to Bangkok. Alternatively, stay the night in Trat and then head to Ko Chang or the surrounding islands the following day.
Other crossings
Several more out of the way crossings are open for international traffic. The O Smach–Chong Jom crossing connects Cambodia’s Oddar Meanchey Province and Thailand’s Surin Province with Siem Reap, but it is very remote.
There is also a border at Prasat Preah Vihear , the stunning Cambodian temple perched atop the Dangkrek mountains. This is currently just a day crossing for tourists wanting to visit the temple from the Thai side, but it may be upgraded to a full international crossing during the next few years.
Vietnam
Cambodia and Vietnam share a long frontier with a bevy of border crossings. Foreigners are currently permitted to cross at eight places and there are new crossings opening all the time. Cambodian visas are now available at all crossings. Vietnamese visas should be arranged in advance, as they are not available on arrival. Luckily, Cambodia is the easiest place in the world to pick up Vietnamese visas. It is no longer necessary to stipulate your exact point of entry and exit on the Vietnam visa, or the exact date of arrival, making for the sort of carefree travel overlanders prefer.
Bavet–moc bai
The original land crossing between Vietnam and Cambodia has seen steady traffic for more than a decade. The trip by bus between Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City takes about five to six hours, including the border crossing.
Kaam samnor–vinh xuong
Cambodia and Vietnam opened their border on the Mekong back in 2000 and it is now very popular with independent travellers. It is a far more interesting trip than taking the road, as it involves a fast boat on the Mekong in Cambodia and travel along some very picturesque areas of the Mekong Delta in Vietnam. Coming from Ho Chi Minh City, it is possible to book a cheap Mekong Delta tour through to Chau Doc and then make your own way from there.
Other crossings
It’s open season when it comes to border crossings between Cambodia and Vietnam, but many are a little out of the way for the average traveller. There are rumours that a ferry may soon link Kep or Kampot with Vietnam’s Phu Quoc island.
The newly opened Prek Chak–Xa Xia crossing has been long anticipated, connecting Kep and Kampot with the Mekong Delta town of Ha Tien. This also offers the prospect of linking the Cambodian coast with the beautiful Vietnamese island of Phu Quoc, formerly the Cambodian island of Koh Tral.
The Phnom Den–Tinh Bien crossing has been open for some time now, but is rarely used as most travellers prefer the Mekong crossing at Kaam Samnor or the new Prek Chak crossing to the south. It lies about 60km southeast of Takeo town in Cambodia and offers connections to Chau Doc.
7. Foods
As in many Asian countries, the staple food of the Cambodian diet is rice. This is usually served with dried, salted fish, chicken, beef or pork. Fish is often fresh from Tonle Sap Lake and is eaten with a spicy peanut sauce called tuk trey. Popular dishes include sam chruk, a roll of sticky rice stuffed with soya bean and chopped pork, and amok, a soup of boneless fish with coconut and spices.
8. Water
It is not advisable to drink tap water but bottled mineral water is safe and available everywhere. All hotels provide a complimentary bottle of local mineral water per person in the room. Ice cubes in drinks is generally OK in good standard hotels and restaurants but it is best to avoid it on street stalls or in country areas. Some minor stomach problems are always possible when travelling in exotic countries. Bring a supply of your usual anti-diarrhoea medicine.
9. Language
Cambodia’s national language is called Khmer and unlike the other languages of the region is not a tonal language. The written script originated in southern India. As in other former French colonies the educated older generation often speaks very good French while the younger generation prefers English. Outside the major centers of Phnom Penh and Siem Reap most people speak only Khmer.
10. Money
The currency of Cambodia is called the riel. Armed with enough cash, you won’t need to visit a bank at all because it is possible to change small amounts of dollars for riel at hotels, restaurants and markets. Please note that ripped, torn, or old bills will not be accepted. ATM machines, which distribute US dollars, are found throughout Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Banks are open Monday to Friday from 08:00 to 15:00 and Saturday morning until 12:00. In the major cities there are exchange bureaus and most hotels will change US dollars although for other currencies it is usually necessary to visit a bank. Traveler’s checks can be exchanged at banks and some hotels but can be difficult to change outside of the major cities. Visa Card and MasterCard are now accepted in many hotels, restaurants and shops in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. However, US dollars cash are still the most reliable form of money to carry.
11. Business Hour
Offices are usually open from Monday to Friday from 07:30 or 08:00 until 17:00 and often close for lunch between 12:00 and 14:00. Shops open early and close any time between 18:00 and 22:00. Most shops are open 7 days a week.
12. Public Holiday
January 1 New Year’s Day
January 7 Victory over Genocide Day
February 14-16 Chinese New Year
March 8 International Women’s Day
April 14-16 Khmer New Year
May 1 Labour Day
May 3 Royal Ploughing Ceremony
May 13-15 King Sihamoni’s Birthday
June 18 Queen’s Birthday
September 24 Constitution Day
October 7-9 Pchum Ben Festival
October 23 Paris Peace Accords
November 1 Former King Sihanouk’s Birthday
November 9 Independence Day
November 20-23 Water Festival
December 10 Human Rights Day
13. Religion
Buddhism is the dominant religion in Cambodia with 90-95% of the population being Buddhist. Islam is practiced by a small percentage of the population, mainly the Cham people residing near the Vietnam border, and Christianity and Hinduism are the religions of less than 1% of the Cambodian people.
14. Cambodia time
Cambodia is GMT plus 7 hours and does not operate daylight-saving system.
15. Electricity
Cambodia uses 220V, and a mixture of flat 2-pin, round 2-pin or 3 pin plugs. It is recommended to bring a universal plug adaptor. Power outages are quite common but most hotels have their own generator.
If you have worldwide coverage, you can bring your own mobile phone and use it to make domestic or international calls. Check with your mobile phone provider for the costs before using it abroad – it may be expensive.
Internet cafes offer the best deals with programs such as Skype providing cheap, decent quality overseas calls.
17. Health matters
No vaccinations are required except for yellow fever if you are coming from an area where the disease is present. However visitors should be inoculated against typhoid, cholera, hepatitis A & B, tetanus and polio.
18. Transportations
Train: Cambodia’s rail system is, like the old road network, one of the most notorious in Asia. There are no longer passenger services, but it may be possible to negotiate a ride on a freight train if you are feeling really masochistic. The best sections of the network are between Takeo and Kampot and from there to Sihanoukville. Trains travel at an average speed of 20km/h, bridges are not always maintained and the ride is often as bumpy as on some of the roads, as the tracks are so warped.
The rail network consists of about 645km of single-track metre-gauge lines. The 382km northwestern line, built before WWII, links Phnom Penh with Pursat (165km), Battambang (274km) and Sisophon (302km). The last stretch to Poipet was pulled up by the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s. The 263km southwestern line, which was completed in 1969, connects Phnom Penh with Takeo (75km), Kampot (166km) and the port of Sihanoukville (228km).
Helicopter: Helicopters Cambodia has offices in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and operates reliable choppers that are available for hire. It mostly operates scenic flights around Angkor, but can be chartered for any journey. Newcomer Sokha Helicopters has also moved into this business.
Cyclo: As in Vietnam and Laos, the samlor or cyclo (pedicab) is a cheap way to get around urban areas. In Phnom Penh cyclo drivers can either be flagged down on main roads or found loitering around markets and major hotels. It is necessary to bargain the fare if taking a cyclo from outside an expensive hotel or popular restaurant or bar. There are few cyclos in the provinces and in Phnom Penh the cyclo is fast losing ground to the moto.
19. Safety
Despite its turbulent history, Cambodia is a safe country to visit. All tourist areas have been cleared of landmines and UXOs with only a small portion remaining in the very remote areas. As a global rule, never leave your belongings unattended and always maintain eye contact or a firm grip on cameras and shoulder bags.
20. Shopping
Cambodian handicrafts include silks, woodcarvings, rattan weavings, handmade papers and the krama , the traditional Cambodian scarf. Phnom Penh and Siem Reap’s local markets are the best places for shopping and there are also dozens of charity-run shops throughout the country where you can shop for a cause. Ask your guide for more information.
21. Entertainment
There is not much in the way of western style entertainment in Cambodia but Phnom Penh and Siem Reap have good restaurants and quite a few bars and nightclubs. In the rest of the country, entertainment is mainly confined to the hotels and mainly tourist-orientated restaurants.
22. Tipping
Tipping for good service is not expected but is always appreciated in a country where the average annual income is quite low compared to Europe for example. It is customary to tip tour guides and drivers at the end of a tour. Hotel and station porters should also be tipped. Do not let guide talk you into tipping more than you plan to. It is totally up to you who you tip, when and how much.
